Sateen in a 6-harness satin weave, lyocell

Sateen is a fabric made using a satin weave structure, but made with spun yarns instead of filament.[1]

The sheen and softer feel of sateen is produced through the satin weave structure. Warp yarns are floated over weft yarns, for example four over and one under (for a five-harness satin weave). In a weft-faced satin or sateen, the weft yarns are floated over the warp yarns. Standard tabby weaves use a one-over, one-under structure.

The long floats of satin and sateen produce a surface that is smooth to the touch and reduces light scattering to increase shine. This weave structure is more susceptible to wear than other weaves; the long floats tend to catch. It is, however, flexible and drapes well, so it is often used for woven-cloth composites.

In modern times cheaper rayon is often substituted for cotton. Better qualities are mercerized to give a higher sheen. Some are only calendered to produce the sheen, but this disappears with washing.

See also

  • Percale – a plain weave
  • Satinet – another satin-like weave
  • Twill – a different weave


  1. ^ Tortora, Phyllis G. (2005) Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles (7th Ed.) New York: Fairchild Publications, p. 490.ISBN 9780870057076.

Media files used on this page

Jute nahtlos.png
Author/Creator: SoylentGreen, Licence: CC-BY-SA-3.0
Hessian Fabric made seamless. It will serve to create a normal map in Blender.
Batik Indonesia.jpg
Author/Creator: MartijnL, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0 nl
Batik cloth purchased in Yogyakarta, Indonesia
MacLachlan hunting tartan (D. W. Stewart).svg
Author/Creator: , Licence: CC BY-SA 2.5
A representation of the Maclachlan hunting tartan. This tartan is the oldest tartan to bear the name MacLachlan. This tartan is referred to as the Old MacLachlan, MacLachlan, and Hunting MacLachlan. This sett was first published in Old & Rare Scottish Tartans by D. W. Stewart in 1893.
Thread count: Y6, W4, Bk32, G32, Y6, W4, R48.
Sources: MacLachlan Clan Tartan WR1710 MacLachlan Hunting Tartan
Author/Creator: unknown, Licence: CC-BY-SA-3.0
6-harness satin weave, 1x1cm lyocell sample.png
Author/Creator: Jan Široky, Barbora Široka and Thomas Bechtold, Licence: CC BY 3.0
A satin weave. As the threads only dip under every 6th thread, the bottom image shows a six-harness satin weave. 1x1cm lyocell sample.