An indienne, a printed or painted textile in the manner of Indian productions.

Indienne (/ˌæn.diˈɛn/, an-dee-EN; French: [ɛ̃.djɛn], lit.'that which comes from Eastern India'), was a type of printed or painted textile manufactured in Europe between the 17th and the 19th centuries, inspired by similar textile originally made in India (hence the name).[1] They received various other names in French such as madras, pékin (French for Peking), perse (French for Persia), gougouran, damas, and cirsacs. The original Indian techniques for textile printing involved long and complicated processes necessitating the use of mordants or metallic salts to fix the dyes. The beautiful, vibrant, colors came from the garance plant for red,[1] indigo for blue, and gaude for yellow.[2]

Indiennes were extremely popular, and attempts at import substitution were soon made. In 1640, Armenian merchants introduced Indian textile printing techniques at the port of Marseilles. Later, England (1670) and Holland (1678) would also adopt the technique.[2]

Their importation and production in France was prohibited through a Royal French Ordinance in 1686 in order to protect the local French woolen and silk cloth industries.[2] The indiennes continued to be produced locally despite the heavy prohibition, and were eventually legalized again in 1759.[2] In France, the main center for the manufacture of indienne was Marseille.

See also

  • Orientalism in early modern France

External links


  1. ^ a b McAbe, Ina Baghdiantz (2008). Orientalism in Early Modern France. Oxford: Berg Publishing. p. 223. ISBN 978-1-84520-374-0.
  2. ^ a b c d "Printed Textiles from the 18th Century". Musée de l'Impression sur Etoffes, Mulhouse.

Media files used on this page

Author/Creator: Foto:Damast. User Damast on sv.wikipedia, Licence: CC-BY-SA-3.0
Jute nahtlos.png
Author/Creator: SoylentGreen, Licence: CC-BY-SA-3.0
Hessian Fabric made seamless. It will serve to create a normal map in Blender.
Batik Indonesia.jpg
Author/Creator: MartijnL, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0 nl
Batik cloth purchased in Yogyakarta, Indonesia
MacLachlan hunting tartan (D. W. Stewart).svg
Author/Creator: , Licence: CC BY-SA 2.5
A representation of the Maclachlan hunting tartan. This tartan is the oldest tartan to bear the name MacLachlan. This tartan is referred to as the Old MacLachlan, MacLachlan, and Hunting MacLachlan. This sett was first published in Old & Rare Scottish Tartans by D. W. Stewart in 1893.
Thread count: Y6, W4, Bk32, G32, Y6, W4, R48.
Sources: MacLachlan Clan Tartan WR1710 MacLachlan Hunting Tartan
Indienne, Wesserling.JPG
Indienne "Le Grand Corail", musée du textile de Wesserling, Alsace, France