Flannel

Grenn flannel shirt in front of red brick wall
Flannel shirts are often plaid.

Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber. Flannel is commonly used to make tartan clothing, blankets, bed sheets, and sleepwear.

Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine fibres from the loosely spun yarns to form a nap on one or both sides. If the flannel is not napped, it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form.

The term "flannel shirt" is often mistakenly used to refer to any shirt with a plaid or tartan pattern. However, 'flannel' refers simply to the fabric, and not all flannel shirts are plaid.

History

The origin of the word is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back to Wales, where it was well known as early as the 16th century. The fabric was called ''Welsh cotton'', and despite its name, it was a coarse woolen material with a fluffed surface similar to flannel.[1][2]

The French term flanelle was used in the late 17th century, and the German Flanell was used in the early 18th century.[3]

Flannel has been made since the 17th century, gradually replacing the older Welsh plains, some of which were finished as "cottons" or friezes, coarse woolen cloth that was the local textile product. In the 19th century, flannel was made particularly in towns such as Newtown, Montgomeryshire,[4] Hay on Wye,[5] and Llanidloes.[6] The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of carding mills, which prepared the wool for spinning, this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised (apart from fulling). The marketing of these Welsh woollen clothes was largely controlled by the Drapers Company of Shrewsbury.[7][8][9]

At one time Welsh, Yorkshire, Lancashire and Irish flannels differed slightly in character due largely to the grade of raw wool used in the several localities, some being softer and finer than others. While nowadays, the colour of flannel is determined by dyes, originally this was achieved through mixing white, blue, brown and black wools in varying proportions. Lighter shades were achieved by bleaching with sulphur dioxide.[10]

Red Flannel Skirt, designed by Sybil Connolly in 1957

During the 1950s Irish designer Sybil Connolly, inspired by Aran Island and traditional Irish peasant skirts, designed a 'Red Flannel' skirt using red flannel wool. [11]

Originally flannel was made of fine, short staple wool, but by the 20th-century mixtures of silk and cotton had become common. It was at this time that flannel trousers became popular in sports, especially cricket, in which it was used extensively until the late 1970s.

The roots of mainstream use of flannels in the U.S. can be traced back to The Gardenias at the University of Buffalo in the mid-1980s. The 'no class-lotta style' fashion trend eventually made its way across the country to Seattle. The use of flannel plaid shirts was at its peak in the 1990s with popular grunge bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam using them as one of the trademarks of their shaggy look. However, few of the mass-produced plaid shirts available at the time were actually made out of flannel. The association between flannel and plaid has led to the use of flannel as a mistaken synonym for plaid.

Types

Flannelette typically refers to a napped cotton fabric imitating the texture of flannel. The weft is generally coarser than the warp. The flannel-like appearance is created by creating a nap from the weft; scratching it and raising it up. Flannelette can either have long or short nap, and can be napped on one or two sides. It comes in many colours, both solid and patterned.[12]

  • Baby flannel is a lightweight fabric used for childrenswear.[13]
  • Cotton flannel or Canton flannel is a cotton fabric napped on one side or two sides.
  • Ceylon flannel was a name for a wool and cotton mixture.[10]
  • Diaper flannel is a stout cotton fabric napped on both sides, and used for making cloth diapers.
  • Vegetable flannel, invented by Léopold Lairitz in Germany in the 1800s, uses fibres from the Scots pine rather than wool.[14]

Weave

Flannel, flannelette, and cotton flannel can be woven in either a twill weave or plain weave. The weave is often hidden by napping on one or both sides. After weaving, it is napped once, then bleached, dyed, or otherwise treated, and then napped a second time.[15]

See also

References

  1. ^ Montgomery, Florence M. (1984). Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth. Internet Archive. New York ; London : Norton. p. 373. ISBN 978-0-393-01703-8.
  2. ^ "WELSH COTTON | Definition of WELSH COTTON by Oxford Dictionary on Lexico.com also meaning of WELSH COTTON". Lexico Dictionaries | English. Retrieved 2021-05-20.
  3. ^ Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Flannel" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 10 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. pp. 480–481.
  4. ^ Newtown History Archived 2007-04-20 at the Wayback Machine
  5. ^ Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust - Projects - Historic Landscapes - Middle Wye - Administrative Landscapes
  6. ^ Llanidloes History
  7. ^ Dodd, A. H. (1931). Industrial Revolution in North Wales. pp. 229–81.
  8. ^ Jenkins, J. Geraint (1969). The Welsh Woollen Industry. Cardiff.
  9. ^ Jenkins, J. Geraint (1963). "The woollen industry in Montgomeryshire". Montgomeryshire Collections. Vol. 58. pp. 50–69.
  10. ^ a b The Concise Household Encyclopedia (c. 1935) The Amalgamated Press, London
  11. ^ "Clothes we still remember". Irish Times. Retrieved 20 January 2022.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  12. ^ Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Flannelette" . Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 10 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 481.
  13. ^ Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. Lewandowski; [illustrations by Dan (2011). The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. p. 19. ISBN 9780810840041.
  14. ^ "Vegetable Flannel". Frank Leslie's Pleasant Hours: 256. 1869.
  15. ^ Grosicki, Z (2014). Watson's Textile Design and Colour. Elsevier Science. p. 327. ISBN 9781782420088.

External links

  • Media related to Flannel at Wikimedia Commons

Media files used on this page

EC1835 C cut.jpg
Author/Creator: Procolotor, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0
Robotron Personalcomputer EC 1835 Prototype (1990), recorded in "Industriemuseum Chemnitz", Germany
Jute nahtlos.png
Author/Creator: SoylentGreen, Licence: CC-BY-SA-3.0
Hessian Fabric made seamless. It will serve to create a normal map in Blender.
Batik Indonesia.jpg
Author/Creator: MartijnL, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0 nl
Batik cloth purchased in Yogyakarta, Indonesia
MacLachlan hunting tartan (D. W. Stewart).svg
Author/Creator: , Licence: CC BY-SA 2.5
A representation of the Maclachlan hunting tartan. This tartan is the oldest tartan to bear the name MacLachlan. This tartan is referred to as the Old MacLachlan, MacLachlan, and Hunting MacLachlan. This sett was first published in Old & Rare Scottish Tartans by D. W. Stewart in 1893.
Thread count: Y6, W4, Bk32, G32, Y6, W4, R48.
Sources: MacLachlan Clan Tartan WR1710 MacLachlan Hunting Tartan
Flannel Shirt For Abi.jpg
Author/Creator: kelly, Licence: CC BY-SA 2.0
Flanellhemd
BathingSuit1920s.jpg
Woman's bathing suit from 1920s. Photo postcard. No copyright notice on card. This is a SOL postcard, series 2832. Here is a larger example of the posted image.
Washer Woman skirt 1957 by Sybil Connolly.jpg
Author/Creator:
Hunt Museum and Eamonn O'Mahony
, Licence: CC0
A vibrant red three-quarter length skirt made from dried báinín wool. The interesting pattern is achieved by quilting.