Crêpe (textile)

Woman's mourning bonnet in hard crape, c. 1880

Crêpe, also spelled crepe or crape (from the French crêpe)[1] is a silk, wool, or synthetic fiber fabric with a distinctively crisp and crimped appearance. The term "crape" typically refers to a form of the fabric associated specifically with mourning.[2] Crêpe was also historically called "crespe" or "crisp".[3]



Detail of an aerophane dress, c. 1827
1.  A crimped silk gauze with a crêpe texture
2.  A historic 19th century lightweight crêpe,[4]: 6  introduced in 1820,[5] and, as "crepe aerophane" in 1861.[6]
Albert crêpe
1.  A fine black silk mourning crêpe introduced in 1862.[5]
2.  Plain-weave crêpe.
3.  An English-made silk and cotton blend crêpe.[4]: 10 
A furnishing fabric with alternating plain weave and crêpe stripes.[4]: 14 
Alpaca crêpe
Rayon and acetate blend crêpe with a woollen texture, not necessarily made of alpaca yarn.[4]: 14 
A British plain-weave silk fabric with crêpe filling.[4]: 14 
1.  A British-made plain-weave cloth with figured crêpe designs
2.  Piece-dyed silk crêpe embroidered with dots.[4]: 23 
(See Georgian crêpe)


Balanced crêpe
Crêpe woven with alternating S and Z twist yarns in both directions.[4]: 39 
Balmoral crape
An 1895 English crape.[7]
An 1889 narrow-striped silk grenadine overlaid with wider crêpe stripes. An earlier 1830s cotton/worsted fabric, spelled balzarine, was probably not crêpe.[7]
Bark (or tree-bark) crêpe
A broad term describing rough crêpes with a bark texture.[8][9]
Bauté satin
Warp-woven satin with a plain crêpe reverse.[10]
Borada crape
A cheaper, economical version of mourning crape advertised in 1887.[3]
Bologna crêpe
Silk crêpe used for mourning, also known as valle cypre.[11]


Canton crêpe
A soft silk crêpe with a pebbly surface originally associated with Canton in China, with bias ribs. Made in Britain, but exported to China, hence its name.[12]
Caustic soda crêpe
Cotton treated with chemicals to create a crêpe-like texture, often in patterns.[13]
Chiffon crêpe
Chiffon-weight crêpe.[14]
Japanese crêpe.[14]
Japanese raw silk crêpe widely used to make kimono.[15][16] When woven with a dot it is mon-chirimen.[17][18]
Courtauld crape
1890s mourning crape made by Courtaulds. An 1894 variation, called 'Courtauld's new silk crêpe', was exceptionally thin and soft.[6] Courtaulds monopolised the export market for English crapes and crêpes, meaning that the textiles known as "crape anglaise" were almost always manufactured by Courtaulds up until 1940.[3]
Crêpe Algerian
A trade name for a printed pongee with a rough crêpe texture.[19]
Crêpe anglaise
A French term for English mourning crapes in black and white.[6] The only true 'crape anglais' was considered that made by Courtaulds (see Courtauld crape) which was last made in 1940.[3]
Crêpe Beatrice
Trade name for crêpe with a light warp stripe.[19]
Crêpe berber
Trade name for a piece-dyed crepe-textured pongee.[20]
Crêpe charmeuse
Lightweight silk satin with a grenadine warp and crêpe reverse.[20]
Crêpe chenette
A tradename for a strong crêpe with a pebble texture.[20]
Crêpe crêpe
Made with extra twists in the warp to create an extra-deep texture.[20]
Crepe de chine
Crêpe de chine
A fine, lightweight silk, cotton, or worsted, with a plain weave and crêpe-twist filling.[20]
Crêpe de chine travers
A ribbed crêpe de chine with heavier filling yarns introduced to the weave at regular intervals.[20]
Crêpe de dante
Crêpe with silk and wool filling.[20]
Crêpe de lahor
Cotton crêpe made in France.[20]
Crêpe de laine
A sheer wool fabric plain-woven with hard twist for a slight crêpe effect.[20]
Crêpe de santé
An undyed, closely woven, rough-textured wool-blend crêpe mixed with silk, linen or cotton, also called "health crepe".[20]
Crêpe de Suisse
1860 dress fabric.[6]
Crêpe d'espagne
Open-weave fabric with a silk warp and wool filling.[20]
Crêpe diana
Trade name for a cotton and silk blend crêpe.[20]
Crêpe Elizabeth
English term for a mottled or pebbled georgette.[20]
Crêpe faille sublime
Silk grosgrain with a hard-twist filling.[20]
Crêpe flannel
Plain-woven worsted with a crêpe finish.[20]
Crêpe imperial
Late 19th century woollen crape.[6]
Crêpe jacquard
Crepe with designs produced by jacquard weaving.[20]
Crêpe janigor
Trade name for a heavy rib textile with alternating rayon and dull acetate warp threads, cross-dyed for varied shades.[20]
Crêpe jersey
Vertically ribbed silk crêpe resembling the knit fabric.[20]
Crêpe lissé (or lease)
A lightweight, lustrous, slightly stiffened open-weave silk or cotton crêpe, with fewer twists than a crêpe crêpe.[20]
French term for a crêpe effect.[20]
Very sheer plain-woven silk usually used in textile conservation.[20] Originally introduced in the 1870s as a cheap alternative to crepe de chine.[6]
Plain-woven worsted using hard-spun yarn.[20]
Crêpe maretz
An 1862 fabric.[6]
Crêpe marocain
Heavy, cross-ribbed crêpe where the filling yarn is coarser than the warp, resembling a canton crêpe.[20]
Crêpe meteor
Soft silk crêpe, twill weave reversing to satin.[20]
Crêpe mohair
Silk and mohair blend crêpe.[20]
Crêpe morette
Trade name. Lightweight worsted crêpe with heavier, looser filling.[20]
Crêpe mosseux
A type of opaque voile which resists shrinkage.[20]
Crêpe myosotis
A later mourning crêpe made in the 1930s, in crimped silk with a soft finish.[6] Courtaulds launched this textile in the early 1930s as an alternative to the increasingly unpopular traditional stiff mourning crapes.[3]
Crêpe-effect pongee.[20]
Crêpe ondese
Rough textured rayon-acetate blend crêpe.[20]
Crêpe poplin
A late 19th century silk-wool rib fabric with crêpe effect.[20]
Crêpe rachel
French print cotton-worsted blend crêpe.[20]
Crêpe radio
British raw silk crêpe with a ribbed effect, using alternate double rows of S-twist and Z-twist.[20]
Crêpe royal
Sheer crêpe-de-chine introduced in 1889.[6]
Crêpe suzette
A variation on crepon georgette.[20]
Silk with crêpe dots. The name also describes a type of fringe.[20]
A class of transparent fabrics with a warp-wise crêpe effect.[20]
A heavier crêpe with an exaggerated warp-directional texture produced by several weaving techniques.[20] A soft silky version was introduced in 1866, and the second, much heavier version in 1882. In the 1890s crepon also described a woollen fabric that puffed between stripes or squares, including crepon milleraye (striped) and crepon Persian (with 'Oriental patterns').[6]
Crystal crêpe
An English term for silk crêpe.[21]
Lightweight crimped mourning gauze, late 16th century.[6]
An crêpe-type fabric in rayon and acetate.[22]
Fine crêpe used for mourning hatbands in the 15th-17th centuries, made in Cyprus.[23]


ʻeleʻele kanikau
Black mourning crêpe worn in Hawaii.[24]
Textile in silk, rayon or worsted with a crêpe surface.[25]
Esmeralda or étendelle
Sheer white crêpe or gauze popular in the early 19th century, often embroidered.[26]


Flat crêpe
Also called mock crepe or (inaccurately) French crepe. A smooth, flat plain-weave fabric, typically a silk blend, with hard-twisted yarns and ordinary yarn warp. Also used to describe a similar fabric made without crepe-twist yarns.[27]
French crêpe
1.  An inaccurately-applied name for flat crêpe.
2.  Plain-weave light silk or rayon cloths similar to flat crêpe.
3.  A lingerie weight fabric with ordinary yarn warp and a twisted filling yarn that is less twisted than typical crepe twist.[28]


An imitation satin-backed crêpe in twill weave rayon.[29]
Georgette evening dress, 1930s
1.  Sheer, lightweight fabric named after the couturiere Georgette de la Plante.[30]
2.  A crepe-surfaced plain weave silk or synthetic fabric with alternating S and Z twist yarns in both warp and weft.
3.  An English term for cotton crepe.[31]
Georgian crêpe
A chain-pebbled crêpe (called armure in France) often with diamond, shield or bird's-eye motifs.[31]


Health crêpe
See crêpe de santé.


Lingerie crêpe
See French crêpe.


Woollen crepe, very resilient and drapable.[32]
Mock crêpe
See flat crêpe
Momie crêpe
Light cotton fabric.[17]
Moss crepe
See sand crepe.


Norwich crêpe or crape
1.  19th century silk warp and worsted, resembling a non-twill bombazine but not considered true crêpe.
2.  17th century black-dyed worsted crêpe made in England.
3.  A georgette-like silk and cotton blend fabric in a crêpe weave.[3][33]


Pekin crêpe
Pekin (shiny and matte striped textile) woven with a crêpe weft.[34]
Mainly cotton fabric with a crêpe effect created by chemically treating the fabric to pucker and crinkle, typically in stripes. Plissé satin is made using crêpe yarns.[35]


Reverse crêpe
Woven with a crêpe yarn warp and flat filling.[36]
Rhythm crêpe
Plain-weave rayon with seersucker stripe.[37]
Heavy but transparent crêpe.[38]
Trade name for heavily ribbed satin-backed crepe.[39]
Russian crêpe
Invented in 1881. A coarse-weave crêpe.[40]


Sand crepe or moss crepe
Crêpe with a grained or frosted surface appearance, created with a small dobby weave.[41]
Sawdust crêpe
Similar to sand crêpe but with a harsher surface.[42]
Satin-back crêpe
Reversible fabric with a satin face and a crêpe reverse.[19]
Japanese spun-silk crêpe.[43]
Spanish crêpe
See Crepe d'espagne.


Victoria crepe
British-made cotton crêpe with a high luster.[44]


Figured silk crêpe made in Yantai, Eastern China.[45]
Yeddo crêpe
Soft cotton fabric, medium weight.[46]

See also


  1. ^ Online Etymology Dictionary
  2. ^
  3. ^ a b c d e f Taylor, pp. 246-253
  4. ^ a b c d e f g Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2013). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles (8th ed.). London: Bloomsbury Academic. ISBN 9781609015350.
  5. ^ a b Lewandowski, p.6
  6. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k Lewandowski, p.77
  7. ^ a b Lewandowski, p. 22
  8. ^ Lewandowski, p. 25
  9. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p.45
  10. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 52
  11. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 66
  12. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 96
  13. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 52
  14. ^ a b Lewandowski, p. 52
  15. ^ Ikegami, p.276
  16. ^ Panda, p.92
  17. ^ a b Lewandowski, p. 194
  18. ^ "About Kyotango".
  19. ^ a b c Tortora & Johnson, p. 156
  20. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj Tortora & Johnson, p. 157
  21. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 164
  22. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 168
  23. ^ Lewandowski, p. 81
  24. ^ Lewandowski, p. 96
  25. ^ Lewandowski, p. 99
  26. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 215
  27. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 236
  28. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 247
  29. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 254
  30. ^ Picken, Mary Brooks (1957). A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion: Historic and Modern. Courier Corporation. pp. 88. ISBN 9780486402949.
  31. ^ a b Tortora & Johnson, p. 259
  32. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 372
  33. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 418
  34. ^ Lewandowski, p. 224
  35. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 465
  36. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 509
  37. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 510
  38. ^ Lewandowski, p. 252
  39. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 517
  40. ^ Lewandowski, p. 254
  41. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 527
  42. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 536
  43. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 555
  44. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 664
  45. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 693
  46. ^ Tortora & Johnson, p. 695


  • Ikegami, Eiko (2005). Bonds of civility : aesthetic networks and political origins of Japanese culture (Reprinted ed.). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. ISBN 9780521601153.
  • Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011). The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. ISBN 9780810877856.
  • Panda, H. (2010). The complete book on textile processing and silk reeling technology (First ed.). Delhi: Asia Pacific Business Press, Inc. ISBN 9788178331355.
  • Taylor, Lou (2009) [1983]. "Appendix 1: A Selection of Popular Mourning Fabrics". Mourning Dress: A Costume and Social History (2009 ed.). Routledge Revivals. pp. 246–253. ISBN 978-1135228439.
  • Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2014). The Fairchild books dictionary of textiles (8th ed.). New York: Fairchild Books. ISBN 9781609015350.

Media files used on this page

Jute nahtlos.png
Author/Creator: SoylentGreen, Licence: CC-BY-SA-3.0
Hessian Fabric made seamless. It will serve to create a normal map in Blender.
Batik Indonesia.jpg
Author/Creator: MartijnL, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0 nl
Batik cloth purchased in Yogyakarta, Indonesia
MacLachlan hunting tartan (D. W. Stewart).svg
Author/Creator: , Licence: CC BY-SA 2.5
A representation of the Maclachlan hunting tartan. This tartan is the oldest tartan to bear the name MacLachlan. This tartan is referred to as the Old MacLachlan, MacLachlan, and Hunting MacLachlan. This sett was first published in Old & Rare Scottish Tartans by D. W. Stewart in 1893.
Thread count: Y6, W4, Bk32, G32, Y6, W4, R48.
Sources: MacLachlan Clan Tartan WR1710 MacLachlan Hunting Tartan
KLÄNNING Syrenlila sidenklänning med cape och underklänning. Tillhört Ebba von Eckermann, f - Hallwylska museet - 89129.tif
Note: For documentary purposes the original description has been retained. Factual corrections and alternative descriptions are encouraged separately from the original description.
KLÄNNING Syrenlila sidenklänning med cape och underklänning. Tillhört Ebba von Eckermann, f. von Hallwyl. Foto till boken: Ett sekel av dräkt och mode ur de Hallwylska samlingarna.
Nyckelord: Klänning, Siden, Långklänning, 1930-tal, Ebba Eckermann, Föremålsbild, Skor, Ett sekel av dräkt och mode ur de Hallwylska samlingarna
Till boken - utställningen Kunglig Vintage - Livrustkammaren - 87606.tif
Note: For documentary purposes the original description has been retained. Factual corrections and alternative descriptions are encouraged separately from the original description.
Till boken / utställningen Kunglig Vintage.
Nyckelord: Kunglig Vintage, Detalj, Strass, Förlovningsklänning, Föremålsbild, Pärlstavar
Chirimen (Japanese crepe) of rayon.jpg
Author/Creator: Asanagi (talk), Licence: CC0
Surface of chirimen (Japanese crepe) which is made of 100% rayon.
Woman's Bonnet (Mourning) LACMA 41.11.8.jpg

United States, 1880s
Costumes; Accessories
Silk crape
Gift of Mrs. Margaret Elm Bryner (41.11.8)
Costume and Textiles
Woman's Ball Gown LACMA M.2007.211.939 (2 of 3).jpg

England, circa 1827
Costumes; principal attire (entire body)
Silk plain weave (aeophane); silk satin lining and metal hooks and eyes; silk satin undersleeves with lace trim.
Purchased with funds provided by Suzanne A. Saperstein and Michael and Ellen Michelson, with additional funding from the Costume Council, the Edgerton Foundation, Gail and Gerald Oppenheimer, Maureen H. Shapiro, Grace Tsao, and Lenore and Richard Wayne (M.2007.211.939)
Costume and Textiles