Cloth of gold

Cloth of gold woven with golden strips

Cloth of gold or gold cloth (Latin: Tela aurea) is a fabric woven with a gold-wrapped or spun weft—referred to as "a spirally spun gold strip". In most cases, the core yarn is silk wrapped (filé) with a band or strip of high content gold. In rarer instances, fine linen and wool have been used as the core.

History

The left inside panel of the Wilton Diptych (c. 1395–1399) shows a kneeling Richard II of England wearing a robe of cloth of gold and red vermilion.

Cloth of gold has been popular for ecclesiastical use for many centuries. Under Henry VII of England, its use was reserved to royalty and higher levels of nobility.[1] It is also used today by companies such as Charvet for neckwear.

Few extant examples have survived in Roman provincial tombs. Later producers of cloth of gold include the Byzantine Empire and Medieval Italian weavers, particularly in Genoa, Venice and Lucca.[2] Dating from the 1460s the Waterford cloth-of-gold vestments are made from Italian silk woven in Florence. The panels were embroidered in Bruges which was the centre of the medieval embroidery industry.A similar cloth of silver was also made. It is still made in India and Europe today.

Other

  • Cloth of gold is not to be confused with various gold embroidery techniques that date to the early Middle Ages, though the type of goldwork thread called "passing" is identical to the weft thread of cloth of gold.
  • Most modern metallic fabrics made in the West are known as lamé.
  • Cloth of gold is a familiar name occasionally applied to the venomous Conus textile species of cone shell.[3]
  • Tilsent is a luxurious silken cloth interwoven with flattened threads of gold or silver.[4]

Images

See also

  • Field of the Cloth of Gold
  • Samite

References

  1. ^ Hayward, Maria (2009). Rich apparel: clothing and the law in Henry VIII's England. Ashgate Publishing. p. 172. ISBN 978-0-7546-4096-7.
  2. ^ Jane Burns, E. (2009). Sea of silk: a textile geography of women's work in medieval French literature. University of Pennsylvania Press. p. 47.
  3. ^ "Cloth-of-Gold". Eyefetch. Archived from the original on 2012-02-10.
  4. ^ Guy, John (2014). Henry VIII : the quest for fame. London: Allen Lane. p. 82. ISBN 9780141977126.
  • The Roman Textile Industry and Its Influence. A Birthday Tribute to John Peter Wild. Edited by Penelope Walton Rodgers, et al.

Bibliography

  • Joycelyne Gledhill Russell: The Field of Cloth of Gold: Men and Manners in 1520. Routledge & Kegan Paul, London 1969

External links


Media files used on this page

Jute nahtlos.png
Author/Creator: SoylentGreen, Licence: CC-BY-SA-3.0
Hessian Fabric made seamless. It will serve to create a normal map in Blender.
Batik Indonesia.jpg
Author/Creator: MartijnL, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0 nl
Batik cloth purchased in Yogyakarta, Indonesia
MacLachlan hunting tartan (D. W. Stewart).svg
Author/Creator: , Licence: CC BY-SA 2.5
A representation of the Maclachlan hunting tartan. This tartan is the oldest tartan to bear the name MacLachlan. This tartan is referred to as the Old MacLachlan, MacLachlan, and Hunting MacLachlan. This sett was first published in Old & Rare Scottish Tartans by D. W. Stewart in 1893.
Thread count: Y6, W4, Bk32, G32, Y6, W4, R48.
Sources: MacLachlan Clan Tartan WR1710 MacLachlan Hunting Tartan
The Wilton Diptych (left).jpg
Richard II of England with his patron saints. The Wilton Diptych (c.1395-1399) is a portable altarpiece taking the form of a diptych. It was painted for King Richard II.
Goudlaken satijnbinding voorzijde.jpg
Author/Creator: Marikevanroon20, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0
Cloth of gold front
Goudlaken keperbinding voorzijde.jpg
Author/Creator: Marikevanroon20, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0
Cloth of gold front
Goudlaken keperbinding achterzijde.jpg
Author/Creator: Marikevanroon20, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0
Cloth of gold back
Gouden weefsel.jpg
Author/Creator: Marikevanroon20, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0
Golden cloth, woven with golden strips and crinkle cordonnet
Goudlaken satijnbinding achterzijde.jpg
Author/Creator: Marikevanroon20, Licence: CC BY-SA 3.0
Cloth of gold back